Hair waving apparatus and method



Nov. 28, 1933.

R. M. KEI-:LE 1,936,674

HAIR WAVING APPARATUS AND METHOD Filed Feb. 6, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet l Fim guia

ATTORNEYS.

Nov. 28, 1933.

R. M. KEELE 1,936,674

HAIR WAVING APPARATUS AND METHOD Filed Feb. 6, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet- 2 IAI m lll j INI/ENTOR. Po/p/V /V/ Hee/e A TTORN Patented Nov. 28, 1933 UNETD STATES PATENT lFlC Application February 6, 1933. Serial No. 655,404

. Claims.

This invention relates generally to apparatus and methods for the waving oi" human hair, such as are adapted for use in commercial beauty parlors. A part of the subject matter disclosed 5 and claimed herein has been divided from my Patent No. 1,887,556, granted November l5, 1932.

It is an object of the invention to devise an apparatus and method of the above character, which will result in an effective and artistic wave, particularly with respect to distribution oi the wave over the entire length of a hair strand.

Further objects or" the invention will appear from the following description in which the preferred embodiments of the invention have been set forth in detail in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. It is to be understood. that the appended claims are to be accorded a range of equivalents consistent with the state of the prior art.

Referring to the drawings:

'Figure 1 is a plan view, illustrating hair waving apparatus incorporating the present invention. Y

Fig. 2 Vis a plan View of the apparatus illustrated in Fig. 1but with certain parts illustrated in diierent operating positions.

Fig. 3 is a cross Ysectional detail, taken along the line 3-3 of Fig. 1, with the hair waving forms omitted. 1

Figeis a side elevational View, illustrating the method of employing apparatus of Figs. 1 to 3 inclusive.

Fig. 5 is a side elevational view, illustrating a strand oi hair completely wrapped upon the 35 waving forros of the apparatus illustrated in Figs. 1 to 3 inclusive.

Fig. 6 isa cross sectional .detail taken along the line 6-6 or" Fig. 5, with a strand wrapped upon the waving form.

but showing the manner in which a heater is associated with the remainder ci the apparatus for a steaming operation.

Fig. 8 is a plan view illustrating the separate parts oi a modified forni oi apparatus, incorporating the present invention.

Fig. 9 is a side elevational view showing the parts of Fig. S assembled, with a hair strand wrapped upon a curler.

Fig. l() is a cross sectional detail, showing clutching means incorporated with one' of the curlers of Figs. 8 and 9.

Fig. 11 is a cross sectional detail taken along the line 11-11 of Fig. 10.

Fig. 7 is a cross sectional view similar to Fig. 6,v

Fig. 12 is an end view of the apparatus as shown in Fig. 9. 'I

Fig. 13 is a cross sectional View illustrating the apparatus of Fig. 9, with a heater applied to the same, for a steaming operation.

The various features oi niy method which have particularly to do with the manner in which a strand of hair is wrapped upon curlers, and maintained under tension for a'steaining operation, can be best understood after a description of one forni ot apparatus incorporating my invention. Thus referring to Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive, the apparatus shown therein includes a protector designated generally at 1S. This protector constitutes primarily a clamping means for engaging a strand of hair adjacent the roots thereof, although where heating is employed to lend perinanency to the wave, it-also serves to protect the scalp from undue heating. The particular form of protector illustrated consists of two clamping bars 11 and 12,which are pivotally connected together by pins 13. The construction of these bars may vary widely, although good results may be secured by forming each bar oi a strip 14 of wood or like non-metallic material, having a pad 16 of absorb-` ent material such as felt secured to its lower face. Wood strips 14 are reinforced by the fiat metal strips 17, which afford grooves for receiving elongated pads 1S oi resilient material such as soitY vulcanized rubber. v

For clamping bars 11 and l2 together, l provide l a pair ci links 20 which are pivotally connected at 21 tothe free end of bar 1l. Pivotally carried by the free ends of links 2U there is a carn lever 22. VCain lever 22 is adapted to engage a hookshaped portion 23,`iorrned onthe free end of bar 12. To clamp the two bars 11 and 12 together upon a strand of hair, the bars are swung together upon the strand, cam lever 22 is engaged with hook-shaped portion 23, and the lever then turned tothe position shown in Fig. 2. Secured to the upper face or" bar 11, there is a metal plate 2i, extending the length of the bar, and serving as a mounting for certain parts to be presently described. With the modication of Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive, the bar 12 is preferably provided with a pair ci spaced fingers 25, which when the two bars 11 and 12 are clamped together, overlie plate 2e as shown in Figs. 2 andA 6.

In conjunction with the protector and clamping means described above, I employ a plurality ci elongated waving iorrns which may be designed' 26, 27 and'28. Forms 26 and 27 can be duplicates, each being circular in transverse cross section, and being provided with end shoulders 29 to con'- ne the extent of the wrap. In the particular modification being described, each oi the forms 26 and 27 is likewise provided with pins 3l and 32 extending axially from its ends, the pin 32 being provided with an enlarged ball 33. Form 28 as illustrated is likewise circular in transverse cross section, and is somewhat lo: ger than the forms 26 and 27. It is provided with enlarged end portions 34 and 36 4) and Ysith an axially projecting lug 37 and square p 38. To facilitate engaging a strand of hair with form 23, this form is shown provided with a curved sheet metal tongue 39, one end of whichhas a pivotal connection 4l with the main body of the form.

In order to retain forni-s 25, 27 and 28 in assembled relationship with respect tothe protector 10, I provide a pair of posts 42 and 43, made oi suitable material such sheet metal. representative of a suitable detail construction for these posts, post 42 is made of a piece of sheet metal bent to form the convergent side flanges 44 and 46. The upper end of post 42 provided with a slot 48. Side portion 46 is cut away to iorm a slot or recess 49, for a purpose to be presently explained. Post 43 is likewise formed of sheet metal bent to provide the side flanges 5l and 52. The upper end of post 43 is provided with a slot 54, while flange 52 is provided with an inclined slot 56.

The ball 33 for form 26 is retained between the flanges 5l and 52 to forni a swivel connection, whereby this form can be swung to a position such as shown-in Fig. l, from a position such as shown in Fig. 5 in which pin 31 of this form engaged between the nanges 44 and 46 ofthe other post 42. To disengage form 26 from the position shown in Fig. 5 it is merely necessary to elevate that end engaged with post 42 to clear iianges 44 and 46 after which the form can be swung into the position of Fig. l. The ball 33 of form 27 is similarly retained between the iianges 44 and 46 of post 42, but at a somewhat higher elevation. Form 27 can be swung to the position shown in Fig. 1, from the position in which its free end, particularly its pin 31 is engaged between iianges 5l and 52. Qbviously when forms 26 and 27 are in the position shown in Fig. l, to reposition these forms as shown in Fig. 5, form 26 must first be engaged with post 42 and subsequently iorrny 27 must engage with post 43. The outward swinging movement of form 26 is accommodated by slot 56, and the outward swinging movement of form 27 accommodated by slot 49.

In order to retain the forin 27 in the position illustrated in Fig. 5, with the pin 31 of this form between flanges 51 and v52, I provide suitable means such as a tab 57 having a hinge connection with post 43. out of the way position as shown in Fig. 1, the pin 31 of form 27 can be introduced or removed from between flanges 51 and 52. When tab 57 is swung to the position shown in Figs. 2 and 5, removal of the pin 31 of the form 27 is prevented.

In order to provide means whereby form 28, when positioned upon posts 42 and 43, may be locked against rotation with respect to the protector in one direction, I provide suitable means such as a lever 59, having a pivotal connection 61 with post 42. One end of lever 59 is provided with a pawl element 62, adapted to engage ratchet teeth 63 formed on the waving form 28. Pawl element 62 is biased in a direction to engage teeth 63 by a leaf spring 64. By applying manual force to the lower end of lever 59, pawl element 62 can be retracted out of engagement with ratchet teeth 63.. Y

When tab 57 is swung to an.

. In operating the apparatus described above, and in carrying out my method, the operator rst segregates a strand oi hair from the head of hair being waved. Protector l0 is then clamped upon the strand, in such a manner that bars 11 and I2 oi the protector are adjacent to and parallel to: the scalp. Forms 26 and 27 are then swung outwardly to the positions shown in Fig. l, and at least one complete wrap or coil of the strand is placed about form 26, with one convolution next to the preceding one. At the time of applying this wrap, the strand is somewhat bunched together, to enable wrapping in the form of a helicold. Form 26 is then swung to a position parallel to the protector bars 11 and12, and its pin 31 engaged between the ilanges 44 and 46. By pulling upon the projecting part of the strand the operator may take out the major part of the slack upon the first curler 26, together with any slack which may exist between this curler and the protector. That portion of the strand adjacent to the form 26 is now coiled about form 27, although preferably in an opposite direction. After placing at least one complete coil upon the form 27, this form is likewise swung to a position parallel to the protector bars l1 and l2 and its pin 31 engaged between nanges 51. and 52. Tab 57 is then swung to a position to retain forms 26 and 27 in the positions shown in 4. The operator can now pull the projecting portion of the strand, to take up any upon curler 27, or slack between this curler and curler 26.

The next operation is to wind the remainder of the strand upon the form 28. To accomplish this, the'remaining portion of the strand is ilattened, and the tip of the strand is engaged between the tongue 39, while the form 28 is held in the position shown Vin Fig. 4. The operator then starts to wind-the strand upon the form 28 preferably in a direction opposite to the wrap upon form 27, by turning the form while it is being advanced toward the protector. When substantially all of the remainder of the strand has been wound upon form 28, the pins 37 and 38 are positioned within slots 48 and 54. The next operation is to tension the wrapped hair, by further turning of form 28, which can be conveniently accomplished by applying a wrench or key to the lug 38. During this further turning of form 28, pawl element 62 ratchets over` teeth 63, until a sufficient degree of tension has been attained. Form 28 is then locked against rotation in a reverse direction to loosen the strand.

After the wrapping operation as has been eX- plained above, and after nally tensioning the strand upon the curlers or waving forms, the strand is heated or steamed to lend permanency to the wave. Thus as shown in Fig. 7, a pad 66 of absorbent material, such as cotton flannel, moi.,- tened with a suitable waving solution is placed over the wound strand, a suitable heater 67 then engaged over the assembly. After the completion of a steaming operation, the operator first removes the heater 67, and pad 66 from the strand.

The operator can then remove the strand from the waving forms and from engagement with the protector 16. This can be accomplished by iirst pressing upon the lower end of lever 59, to release pawlv element 62, to enable the operator to iirst unwind that portion of the strand upon form 28.

Form 27 can then be swung to aposition as shown in Fig. l, and that portion of the strand coiled thereon removed, following which forni 26 can be s vung outwardly to the position shown Fig. l and the remaining portion of the coiled strand means shown th removed. Lever 22 of the protector 10 can now be released; to remove the protector.v f i The inodication of Figs. 8 to linclusive diiiers sor ewhat from the modication of Figs. to 6 inclusive, particularly in that only two waving orins o curlers are employed, and in that the first curler or g iorin is not pivotally conneet-ed to the protector. Thus in this case the protector is orined in accordance with the structure disclosed and claimed in my co-pending application Ser. No. 635,470 led September 30, 1932. Brieiiy it consists oi a sealing unit 72, conjunction with clamping means 73. The sealing unit 72 consists ci a shirt 7e, provided with a longitudinal slot 76. Two elongated opm posed portions 77 have their endportions integrally joined tog! er, and extend upwardly from the edge portions of skirt 7a which border the longitudinal slot 7d. A lip 78 is io ned upon the upper edges of portions 77. A suitable padding 79, o felt or like material, is secured to the under side oi s1 ,t 7e. The skirt 7e, opposed portions 17, and lip 7S, are 'forni-ed as a unitary structure or suitable resilient material, suoli as soit vulcani'led rubber. Clamping rneans 73 consists oi a pair of flat nieto-l bars 81 S2. Links S3 are secured to one end ci bar 82, and these links have a pivotal connection 84 with a corresponding end of bar 81. Links 8S are pivotally connected to the other end oi bar 81, pivotally secured between these links, there is a locking lever 37. This locking lever is adapted to engage a hook-shaped end portion 83 of 32. Upstanding lugs or posts 89 and 91 are mounted upon links 8S and S8 respectively, and these posts or lugs are provided with upright slots 92. Slotted wood strips S9 are disposed upon bars 82, to afford adequate clamping races for engaging the opposed resilient portions 77. l

Fig. 13 shows more clearly the nia-nner in which clamping inc-ans 73 engaged with respect to the seal unit 72. ssun g that a strand of hair has been disposed in longitudinal slot 76, the forcing oi bars 81 and S2 together upon the opposed resil 3nt por" 77, effectively grips the strand of hair to prevent pull being transmitted to the scalp, and to prevent downward flow of hot vapor to the scalp.

Curler which is adapted to engage that protector, adapted to loosely engage in the slots 92 oi 89 and 91. Curler 97 has a hinged tongue 98 or eduiv aient means for engaging the tip or the strand of hair, and is also provided with st 100 and 101 projecting roin its ends, for engagement with slots 92. Stud 101 is provided with a squared head 102, for engagement with a wrench or other suitable tuin'ng tool. Stud 100 is squared so as to be non-rotatable with respect to its slot 92, and is associated with the body of curler 97 thru suitable clutching means such as shown in Figs. 10 and 11.

Referring to Figs. 10 11, the clutchirg rein formed follows :Stud 109 is formed upon one end of a lo, in is socket-ed within a axially of the body ci curler 97.

107 in the body of c 7. spring 108 is fitted w'thin 107. and normali tends to 107. A retainer`l09 of wire or other like inaterial, serves to retain pin 103 in assembled relationship with respect to the Vcurler 97. When the body of the curler is rotated in one direction with res' ect to pin 103, the friction between the spring 108 and the side walls of bores 106 and 107, tends to Wind up the spring, tous permitting relative turning movement. However, when relative rotation in the opposite direction is attempted, the'fricticn between spring 108 and the side walls of bores 106 and 107 tends to er;- pand the spring, to forma locking engagement between the pin 103 and the body oi the curler.

in using the modification ci Figs. 8 to 13 inelusive, the protector 71 is first clamped upon strand of hair to be waved, with the protector relatively close to and parallel to the scalp. The

projecting strand of hair .is then somewhatA shown in Fig. 9, and the slack. oi the wound con volutio-ns taken up upon the curler and between thecurler and theprotector, by pulling the projecting end of the strand. It is also possible to wind the hair upon curler 94.- aiter this curler has been mounted upon the protector, provided a suitable tool is employed, such as the tool illustrated in Figs. 7 and 8 or" said Patent 1,887,556. 1t will be noted in this instance that the convolutions are placed one beside the other or in the form oi a helicoid. The next operation is to wind the remaining part oi the Ystrand upon the curler 97. This is accomplished by combing out and iiattening the projecting portion of the strand and engaging the tip o the strand beneath tongue 98, while curler 97 is held by the operator in an elevated position. Following such engagement of the tip of the strand, the operator now manually turns curler 97 to wind up this projecting part of the strand, and while this winding operation proceeds, the operator permits curler 97 to advance towards the protector. After practically all of this projecting part of the strand has been wound upon curler 97, this curler is engaged with posts 89 and 91, in the manner shown in Fig. 9, and then by engaging a tool with the squared head 102, curler 97 is turned to effect nal tensioning of the entire length of the strand.

Following formation of the complete wrap as illustrated in Fig. 9, the operator new proceeds with the steaming operation. Thus as shown in Fig. 13, a pad 111, moistened with suitable waving solution, is placed over the wound hair, and a suitable heater 112 engages over the pad.

Following a steaming operation, it is a simple matter to disengage the wound hair from the apparatus oi Figs. 8 to 13 inclusive. Generally this is accomplished by releasing the caro locking lever 87, and then unwinding the strand with respect to the curlers 94 and 97'.

I claim:

1. In a method of waving hair characterized by the use of the protector adapted to be'clamped upon a hair strand and by the use of at least two curlers upon which the strand can be wound, the steps of clamping the protector upon a strand of hair adjacent the scalp, winding a portion of the I'.

top of each other, and then finally positioning said curlers in close parallelism and parallel to the scalp, with the hair Wound thereon under tension.

2. In a method of waving hair characterized by the use of an elongated protector adapted to be clamped to a strand of hair and by the use of at least two elongated curlers upon which the strand can be wrapped, the steps of clamping the protector to a strand of hair adjacent the scalp, winding a portion of the strand upon one curler, while said curler is arranged with its axis non-parallel with respect to the protector, positioning said curler with its axis parallel to the protector and to the scalp, winding the remaining portion of the strand upon another curlenand then positioning the second curler in close parallelism with the rst curler, with the strand wrapped upon both curlers under tension.

3. In hair waving apparatus of the character described, an elongated protector adapted to be clamped upon a strand of hair adjacent the scalp, an elongated curler upon which the strand oi hair may be wrapped, and means forming a pivotal connection between one end of said curler and one end portion of the protector, whereby the curler can be swung laterally toward one side of the protector.

4. In hair waving apparatus of the character described, an elongated protector adapted to be clamped upon a strand of hair adjacent the scalp, an elongated curler upon which the strand can be wrapped, means forming a pivotalconnection between one end of said curler and one end portion of the protector whereby said curler can be swruig from a position in which it extends substantially parallel to the protector, to a position in which it extends laterally at an angle to the protector, and means for retaining the other end of the curler with respect to the protector.

5. In hair waving apparatus, an elongated protector adapted to be clamped upon a strand o1' hair adjacent the scalp, at least two elongated curlers, and meansr for mounting said curlers upon the protector, said last means permitting swinging movement of one of the curlers with respect to the protector from a position in which the axis of said curler extends substantially parallel to the protector, to a position in which said axis extends laterally from the protector.

RALPH M. KEELE. 

